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THE ROAD TO LA BUFADORA
By Connie Ellig
The tiny poblado of Esteban Cantu serves as the local business district with small grocery stores, eateries, Internet cafes, a pharmacy, laundromat, insurance and real estate offices, auto repair and tire shops, hardware and building supply stores, and the three-room Bay Shore Inn. Open 10am-4pm (closed Tues.), Galeria Berta Armas features exhibitions of fine and decorative art created by Baja California artists. Just past the poblado is the turnoff to the Punta Estero "sand spit" with unspoiled beaches and the currently defunct Baja Beach Resort.
Located halfway to La Bufadora is Poblado Punta Banda with Campo Agua Caliente, La Jolla Beach Camp, and Villarino RV Park. Established in the 1950s/early 1960s, these trailer parks are the permanent home to a large number of retired Americans. (The latter two offer overnight camping, boat ramps and various amenities.) La Sociedad de Vecinos de Punta Banda, a social and service club comprised of local Mexicans and Americans, holds monthly meetings at the La Jolla Beach Camp Salon and sponsors many community projects including a thrift shop, scholarship program, folkloric dance troupe and theatrical productions at the Gertrude Pearlman Theatre. Nearby are the Punta Banda Fire Department and Post Office, and a half mile further, the dirt road to secluded Los Arbolitos and Campo Kennedy on the other side of the peninsula.
It is important to drive with care as the highway curves along high cliffs with panoramic ocean views and continues past Rancho Packard and the turnoff to Puerto Escondido. After passing the rustic Ejido Coronel Esteban Cantu Campgrounds #7 and #5, the road descends and curves around Restaurant La Bufadora. Just past Celias Restaurant/Bar/Mini-Market and Los Gordos Restaurant/Bar is the entrance to Rancho La Bufadora and Bahia Papalote with Dale's Dive Shop, a boat ramp, rustic oceanview campsites and a large American resident community.
There are several lots where visitors can park (small fee) and take a short stroll to the Blowhole while enjoying the colorful ambiance of curio and artisan shops, taco and churro stands, and restaurants/bars like Costa Azul, Alicia's and Los Panchos. When pedestrian traffic (or lack thereof) permits, drivers may park closer to the Blowhole at the two lots near Los Panchos for a small fee.
The main attraction on the Punta Banda peninsula is La Bufadora, a mighty blowhole that spews water and foam into the air, often to heights of over 100 feet. The most dramatic activity occurs during incoming tides. Paved walkways, some with ramps to ease access for the handicapped, lead to various observation decks overlooking La Bufadora. The area has been renovated to include a botanical garden and electric lighting.
What To Do: Go horseback riding (horses for rent near Campo Agua Caliente). Enjoy hiking or mountain biking. Swim in clean ocean waters or a recreation park pool. Fish for seabass, halibut, rock cod, ling cod or yellowtail. Discover the hot springs on the beach in front of Agua Caliente and La Jolla Camps (a walkway with public access is between La Jolla and Villarino camps). Enjoy kayaking, diving and seasonal whale watching at Rancho La Bufadora. Shop for arts and crafts at the Blowhole or browse the weekend swap meet in "lower" Maneadero. Get splashed by ocean spray at the magnificent Bufadora. Sip an ice cold beer or tangy margarita while savoring fresh seafood or tasty Mexican fare on an oceanview restaurant terrace. Camp under clear, starry skies.
What NOT To Expect: Gas
stations or liquor stores (the closest are in Maneadero). Except for the tiny
Bay Shore Inn, there are no hotel or motel accommodations (although vacation home
rentals are available through Cruz
International). There are no public phones past Poblado Punta Banda.
Punta Banda history, 1887 to now
Compiled by Tillie Foster (a longtime resident of P.B.)
ENSENADA, PUNTA BAND- EARLY HISTORY 1887 - 1890 (A brief history with portions of notes taken from articles in the Overland Tours monthly in the year 1890 and Terra Vol 29 by D.Chaput in 1990)
The wonderful progress made, in the late 1800's, in the settlements of Southern California, US, actually directed attention to the lower California, without much regards four boundary lines. The investigative report was so encouraging that a Company of capitalists was formed, comprised of leading citizens of both the US and Mexico. They proceeded to acquire title to 18 million acres of land in Lower California (Baja)
The Association was called The International Company of Mexico, who in building railroads and steamship line along the coast and opening several ports of entry, directed attention to a region of land that has been isolated for ages. The Mexican Steamship line runs to Ensenada, leaving San Diego Monday Wed & Friday at 7 PM, returning the following day. Fares $5.00 one way , round trip $7.50.
The vast region of country included many lovely valleys and climate, equal to any portion of the Pacific slope.
Ensenada was the first town laid out and colonized and in 1887 had a 1400 population, one half of them were Americans. T he town is situated on the coast at the northern end of the crescent shaped bay of Todos Santos.
PUNTA BANDA was another new place - It is situated on the south end of the Todos Santos bay. The promontory is 5 miles in length and from 1 to 4 miles wide. Its maximum height is about 2000 ft, gradually sloping to the bay on the north, but has perpendicular cliffs on the south side.
That old veteran, Major Gabriel Erb, of the Walker House, Salt Lake City, and his associates, in 1887, owned about 5.000 acres of land on which was Punta Banda, including the famous hot springs.
In 1887, a pier was build in front of the town of Ensenada which was to be called on by a regular steamship line from San Diego to Ensenada. The "Hotel Erb", planed to be build, near the Hot springs, would be a marvel in Architecture. Out of the 600 rooms, all were to be outside rooms.
The country in the vicinity of Punta Banda, was claimed to be the richest and most productive on the pacific coast. The hot springs, near the planed site of the Hotel would add to the value as a tourist attraction, as well, as the famous water blowhole, know as "La Bufadora"
Major Erb did start his hotel in the Spring of 1887. To bolster the tourism health angle the major hired a. prominent Chicago chemist to test the waters of Punta Banda's hot Springs. With newspaper advertisements of the Gloria of the hot springs were extolled to all the world as loaded with calcium, various sodium's and declared as exceeding richness and one of the strongest waters ever analyzed.
Erb's dream was to make his hotel the finest on the pacific coast and possibly the continent. His enthusiasm grew from the belief among the Investors of the INTERNATIONAL COMPANY, that there was an ideal coming together of the many political, financial and transportation developments.
With all the natural advantages of a good harbor, ideal climate, healthy hot springs. The abundance of fish in the bay. PLUS the plans for a railroad, meant that the Punta Banda Project would actually be a major tourist development.
The Major started his hotel, but soon found that Local resources were inadequate for this tremendous structure of 600 rooms. He turned to San Francisco for the plans and to Oregon for the lumber, but the year 1888 provided a series of serious setbacks to Major Erb as well as to the entire Baja California development.
The 'International Company' collapsed and was reborn as the 'Mexican Land Colonization' under the direction of Captain Buchanan Scott who tried to save the corporation. Another extreme setback in 1888 was the publications from Mexico City by an opposition Politician, who saw the entire International Company, as anty Mexican, to populate all of Baja with Yankees in preparation for annexation to the U.S.
But the most disastrous series of event, that killed Erb's dream, was the collapse of the land railroad, The Baja California peninsular could not escape from the fallout. The period from 1888 1890 was a time of survival and not development. The gold rush at 'El Alamo', 60 miles Inland from Ensenada, saved that community from ruin, but the population decreased greatly and most of the foreigners left the peninsular.
PUNTA BANDA eventually did get telegraph connections and a fairly good wagon road from Maneadero to the Hot Srings, and once in a while a visitor would come to soak in the hot springs and drink the local calcium drinks in the interest of health.
.PUNTA BANDA in the 2000's, is still relatively untouched, and is one of the most beautiful regions in Baja California. The bay is still a fisherman's paradise. The unpolluted calm waters have made Todos Santos Bay and the Punta Banda area one of the most desirable areas for recreation and retirement. To date there are over 500 families from various parts of the US. and Canada who call Punta Banda home.
Contrary to the belief of that politician in 1888, Punta Banda was not annexed to the US. The entire Peninsular is similar to the Bay of Monterey, and to some it reminds them of the Mediterranean coast and to others it reminds than of Maui Hawaii.
There still is almost of 9,000 acres of habitable land, some of which faces the bay and on the other side the Pacific Ocean.
There are several family owned and run beach camps that are perennial favorites for the many foreign visitors that are attracted to the area for its serenity and beauty. The hot Springs on the beach are easily accessible at low tide, and a delight to find. Digging only an inch down let the thermal waters rise. Your own private hot tub (a little sandy) but for at least 4 hours, until the Incoming tide slowly fills in the hole. Lie there, look at the sky and enjoy the peace and serenity that surrounds you in Punta Banda until the next time. If you look really hard, walking on the beach you may find a trace of the railroad line from 1880. 2 rusty tracks hidden under the sands of time.
The "Blowhole" is still a popular tourist destination
as a half day trip for the cruise ship passengers that come to Ensenada and to
others who have just driven down the coast to spend one or two days to "get away
from it all" Its too bad that Major Erb didn't get to complete his hotel, but
it is still so nice to know that there is still a place like this. A little corner
of this busy world where time stands still and the beauty of nature prevails.
